Do you have a question that relates to fishing boats? Technical, maintenance, boat design, you name it - if you want to get the answers, e-mail your question to HookedOnFishingBoats.com editor Lenny Rudow at LR@geareduppublications.com and see it answered here!
Ask an Expert!
9/24/10
Q: I have a 26' Pro Sports Procat, which performs to my expectations. But I've seen a lot of cats rigged with hydrofoils, and it makes me wonder, could I improve the boat's performance by adding a pair of foils to the outboards?
- Bill G., Montauk, NY
A: Adding foils probably wouldn't affect your boats' performance too much, Bill. The cats you see rigged with foils are usually those with fine, slender hulls, which give the boat a tendency to "snap roll" in a beam sea. The foils help enhance the boat's stability as it runs by adding some lateral torque, and they also aid stability at rest simply by adding some water resistance as the boat rocks from side to side. Your boat's hulls are relatively wide for a cat, and (as I recall from testing the 26' Pro Sports), doesn't suffer from a snap roll at all. You can try adding the foils but I doubt you'll detect much of an effect.
Why won't this VHF radio work?!
8/1/10
Q: My VHF radio works intermittently, and I can't figure out why to save my life! For days at a time it operates without a problem. Then suddenly one day when I go out, no one's able to hear me transmit. It seems like at all times, I can recieve just fine. I've re-wired the antenna and power leads, re-connected the GPS NMEA 0183 connection for DSC (which also seems to work fine 100 percent of the time) and nothing seems to change. Help!
A: I'm glad you sent in this picture, because it tells me everything I need to know. Your mic is mounted vertically on the dash, face up. This is the root of your problem. In this position it'll collect water on its face (even dew is enough to create problems) which then garbles your transmissions. In fact, I'll bet that if you pay close attention to exactly when you have problems, early morning is the worst and by afternoon it works fine - unless it's raining, or you take a lot of spray. The fix is simple: re-mount the mic, in a horozontal position at the helm.
The ICAST show - new fishing tackle galore!
After spending three solid days at ICAST, the largest fishing tackle trade show of the year, I can tell you this: 2010 and 2011 are going to be cool years to be an angler. All of the new gear and goodies rolled out at the show is going to hit the market in the next year or so, and there were countless items of interest. At the New Product Showcase, where each new goodie is displayed, row after row of soft plastic lures, crankbaits, swimbaits, and plugs lines the shelving. An entire wall was lined with new rods and a huge showcase was needed to display all the new reels. But the biggest news of the show was the introduction of EarthSports.com - which also happens to be my new editorial home. I'm not just saying this to be self-serving; throughout the show our booth was swamped, and the buzz among the attendees was unmistakable. The site is up and running full-tilt right now, so go to EarthSports.com and check it out. You'll discover a social network of hard-core anglers, guides, and fishing tackle manufacturers; awesome how-to fishing articles written by our expert contributors (guys like myself, Frank Sargent, Dave Mull, Joe Bruce, Ron Ballanti, Rusty Chinnis, and John Unkart); and super-sweet fishing videos. OK - enough about EarthSports for now, suffice it to say that you need to check it out. In the mean time, if you want to low-down on the cool new stuff I saw at ICAST keep an eye on the blog - there's lots to come!!!
Marine electrical connections can be tricky.
6/28/10
Q: It seems like I'm always fighting corroded electrical connections. What's the best way to make a connection that will last in the marine environment?
- Bob H, Londontown, MD
A: Bob, this problem plagues us all. There's no easy answer because electrical connections come in so many different forms, but there is one thing you can look for that will remain corrosion-free for years: Deutsch connectors. These have rubber seals which, when the connectors are snapped together, are under pressure. They remain water tight nearly all the time, and in my experience, last five or six times as long as other connections. Of course, in most single-connection cases they aren't applicable. In these cases, make sure you spray down the wires and connectors with a corrosion inhibitor like CorrosionX, then seal them in heat-shrink tubing or liquid electric tape.
Ask an Expert
Q: I like to video tape fishing trips on the boat, but I've already destroyed two cameras thanks to salt spray and drops to a fiberglass deck. Have you found any that can stand up to the rough environment of a saltwater fishboat?
-Andrew G., Ocean City, NJ
A: Yes Andrew, there are a couple of good ones out there. The first is the Sanyo Xacti, which has full 1080 p HD, shoots 14-megapixel pictures, and records to a memory chip, It's waterproof for use down to three meters up to one hour. The top-of-the-line model is expensive with an MSRP of $699, but lesser models can be had for $300 or so. My nine year old son has one, and it's lived through his butterfingers, salty spray, and even sub-surface use. Another good one is a Kodak, called the Play Sport. This one is also 1080 HD and is good down to three meters for up to an hour, and I've used it repeatedly for underwater filming with no ill effects, but it doesn't have the still-camera ability of the Xacti. On the other hand, it's a heck of a lot less expensive and goes for under $200.
Can a Bimini top work on a fishboat, or do you need a T?
Q: I just bought a center console bay boat and it has a Bimini top. I've only fished it twice now, but the top constantly seems to get in the way. If I get rid of it and add a T-top, it'll cost me about $1,200. Is it worth the money, or will the T-top get in the way just as much?
- Bill R., Charleston, SC
A: The short answer to your question is yes, it's worth the money. A Bimini is a bad idea on a fishboat; it eliminates your ability to walk 360-degrees around the boat with a fish on the line, it catches both rod tips and lures on the back-cast, and walking fore and aft with a rod in hand is always problematic. Changing it for a T-top eliminates 80 to 90 percent of these problems. But hold on a sec, Bill. $1,200 is way too little to pay for a T-top, especially if that includes installation. There are plenty of cheap tops in the $1,000 to $2,000 range out there, and most of them are more or less junk. They'll sway and creak every time you hit a wave, they'll bend when someone holds onto the pipework, and the rocket launches move so much they will actually launch - your rods, right overboard. Tops like this often break welds and rip up from the deck, since they move around so much. If you're paying less then two grand for a top you should immediately suspect sub-par materials and workmanship. Inspect a sample top made of the same materials and yank, pull, and hang on it to check out how solid it is. The more motion you see, the worse it is. I know it's hard to part with your hard-earned money, but I've had cheap tops in the past and trust me, it'll be an ongoing problem as long as you have one on your boat - spend the bucks it takes to get a solid top, and you'll be a lot happier in the long run.
Should you add trim tabs to a cat?
Yo Rudow - I have a 20' Nautico Explorar with a pair of Suzuki 70's on it. I'm generally happy with the way the boat runs, but someone suggested I could improve the boat's running attitude (and maybe efficiency and speed) by adding a pair of trim tabs. Is that true?
-John G., Manchester, MA
Hey John - I've had extensive experience with this particular boat (I ran one for a summer, I have a close friend who owns one, and my brother owns the one pictured here) and while I haven't run one with tabs, I don't think they'll do a thing for you other then cost you money. The fact of the matter is that it's incredibly easy to control both lateral and fore and aft running attitude with the outboards. When you're leaning to port, for example, switch your trim control to the individual engines, trim up the starboard engine, only, and it'll level out the ride. Then switch the control back to both engines, and raise or lower them as necessary to get the bow as high or as low as you need it for the current conditions. You'll find that it's incredibly easy to trim the boat out using the motors, alone.
How much electric power do you really need?
5/18/10
Q: I just bought an 18' bay boat and I want to add an electric motor, so I can creep around the flats and weedbeds while casting for redfish and speckled trout. The boat weighs 1,500 pounds and the 115-hp E-Tec outboard on it weighs 375 pounds. How many pounds of thrust will I need to move around all day with an electric motor?
- Jim K., Flamingo, FL
A: It's hard to say without seeing your boat and being able to judge how it'll be effected by variables like hull design and windage, but generally speaking, with a boat of this size you'll be able to creep around with 50 to 60 pound thrust motors from the likes of Motorguide or Minn Kota. But creeping is all you'll be able to do. If you want to exceed a slow walking speed, you should up the ante to a larger motor. If you're like most anglers bigger will be better in the long run, but there's one other thing to consider: voltage. Most electrics from about 60 to 80 or so pounds of thrust are 24 volts, and need a two-battery bank. But larger motors often are 36 volts, and require a three battery bank. This is a huge difference, because most boats like yours can hold four batteries, giving you two full battery banks and the ability to run all day long. But fitting six batteries can be a lot tougher, and if you can only get three (one battery bank for a 36-volt engine) onto your boat you might not have the range and/or running time you want. If you can fit six batteries, I'd suggest going as big as possible with the motor. But if four maxes out your stowage space, you may be happier choosing the largest 24-volt electric you can find.
4/16/10
Q: I'm back looking for a bit of advise again. I bought a lamson konic fly reel at the end of last year and absolutely love it! I have a floating line on it, as I was a beginner the last two years. Now I'm thinking maybe I should buy another spool and try maybe a sinking or sink tip line. I love trout fishing in Maine, but I also do a lot of small mouth bass fishing in some of the great lakes around Maine. I have been kind of limited to topwater bass jigs and dry flies with the floating line and am thinking that I would really like to fish some more nymphs, for trout, and clousers and deaper streamer paterns for the bass as the day moves on. My problem is that I don't really know what I'm looking for in a sinking line. Do I want a full sink line, or do I maybe want a sink tip line for more versatility? Anyway, I thought I would ask here first because the advise is always awesome. So Thanks again, and I look forward to learning some more about sink vs. floating lines.
--Blake D.
A: Hey Blake - I wish I could answer you personally, but I have to admit, I'm not a fly-guy and my fly fishing advice would be sub-par. So I went to a fellow BoaterMouth contributor and a Power & Motoryacht Contributing Editor who's into casting fly gear, Pete McDonald, to get your answer. Here's what Pete has to say:
No problem - personally, I recommend a full sink line because it's much easier to cast than a sink tip, and it will bring the fly down deeper.
From the type of fishing you do, it sounds like you're using a five or six weight fly rod. For my six-weight, I use a 30' section of 150 grain sinking line, which has a very manageable sink rate of around 4 inches per second.
3/30/10 Q: I’m upgrading my chartplotter, and I keep hearing about the satellite weather service. I’m interested, but it’ll add about $500 to the system plus there’s a monthly fee, and I’m not sure that’s really worthwhile. What’s your bottom-line feeling on this – is it worth the added expense?
--Colin G., Port Aransas, TX
A: Let me begin by answering your question with one of my own: have you ever wanted to slap the weatherman silly? Of course you have – we’ve all screwed by the weather-boob. What Satellite weather brings to the table is the ability to see the exact same real-time data he does, right on your chartplotter screen.
My own personal example: last spring, the night before a striper trip on the Chesapeake, the (insert favorite curse here) weatherman called for a 40-percent chance of thunderstorms in the morning. When the sun rose the sky was clear, so I launched the boat, fired up the systems, and activated the weather overlay. According to the weatherman there was still just a 40-percent chance of rain, but on the chartplotter screen I saw a line of thick thunderstorms 40 miles to the west, rolling towards us at 20 MPH. Almost exactly two hours later the sky opened up, and lightening bolts started crashing down—but we’d seen it coming, and were already hitting the ramp. Score one for the weather system.
Three months later, the system stopped me from running headlong into a line storms from the 50-fathom line out to well beyond the canyons. A month after that, it caused me to run in early because of incoming squalls, and we hit the inlet right as a wall of 30-knot winds slammed through. Let me reiterate: yes, it is worth it.
Now, a few caveats: The system gives you storm data like wind speed, direction and speed of travel, and severity, but it also can show SST water temps, wave heights, and gobs of other data. Note that unless you have a whopping-big 15” screen at the helm, bringing up all this data at the same time can make things a bit confusing. Instead, plan on looking at one thing at a time and regularly checking different weather data, as necessary. Also, don’t place too much stock in the SST data. It does give you a general idea of the general areas’ temperatures, but I can’t ever seem to zoom in tightly enough to get a solid fix on breaks. Despite these minor weaknesses, let me say it one last time: YES, satellite weather is worth the expense, period.
3/11/10
Q: Help! My 26' Privateer walkaround has a pair of 150's on the transom, and these fuel bills are killing me! Short of slowing down or buying a smaller boat, can you give me some tips on how to save on fuel expenses?
--Paul B., Charleston, SC
Does fuel burn put a crimp in your boating budget?
Not a problem, Paul. For most boaters the number-one operating expense is fuel, and pulling up to the pump can be downright painful these days. Use these these five fuel-saving tricks, and you can lower that bill.
1. A Feel for Steel - If your prop is aluminum, swap it for a stainless-steel prop and you'll usually gain one to three mph. Stainless flexes less then aluminum so while switching props bumps your speed up, RPMs and your fuel burn stay the same.
2. Trailer, Sailor - Trailerboaters can cut the boating budget by cutting the amount of fuel they burn by spending more time on the highway, and less time cruising. Your truck's fuel efficiency is certain to be better then the boat's, so find the ramp closest to your ultimate destination, and hit the road.
3. Run a Tab - Trim tabs will enhance your boat's efficiency and over time, they will pay for themselves. Tabs allow you to find the best running attitude for your boat, which will give your top-end and cruising speeds a slight bump while taking a nick out of the fuel expenses. The savings won't be huge but they will add up - and you'll also get a big comfort boost since your boat will be able to handle seas better than before.
4. Slim-Fast Boating - It may be time to put your boat on a diet. Increased weight means increased fuel burn, and there are a few specific weight-shedding items to look for: full water tanks that you rarely use, unused excess anchor rode, and extra fishing tackle are some examples of things that can probably be left at the dock without causing a hardship.
5. Get a Gauge on Fuel Burn - Install a fuel flow meter, and you'll know exactly how much fuel you're burning at any given time, in any conditions. This saves fuel in the long run, because it allows you to always see where your boat's most efficient cruising speed is. As sea conditions change - and that most efficient speed changes - you'll know when and how to adjust the throttles to maintain the best efficiency
You've taken all of these miserly measures, and now you know where to save a buck or two? Excellent. Soon you'll be saving so much on gas pains, that you can go buy some bait again.
3/1/10
Q: I like reading the daily new tips on this site, but I haven't saved them, and now I don't remember most of what I learned. How can I access all of those tips?
--Joesph P., Deer Park, MI
A: Hi Joseph - There's no way to access the whole of them, but don't worry, we're here to help! Here are 36 tips that will help you become a better boater and fisher. Once a month or so we'll put up new tip collections, until the entire archive is accessible. Enjoy!
Outrigger Maintenance Tip (1): Spray lubricant inside of telescopic outriggers, to keep the spring-loaded catches springy.
Lure Tuning Tip (2): To get a diver to dive deeper, Crazy-Glue a faux fingernail to the end of the lure's lip.
Fishin' Dog Tip (3): If your dog's paws slide across the fiberglass deck, lay down a piece of old carpet. Fido will appreciate it.
Maintenance Tip (4):
When gauges start working intermittently, clean all of their connections - this is usually the root of the problem.
Outboard Tip (5):
Use 50-lb test monofilament to ream out clogged outboard tell-tale tubes.
Outrigger Tip (6):
Lube over-tight nylon outrigger lines with a quick blast from the washdown hose.
Rigging Tip (7):
Put a piece of duct tape over a spot you're about to drill in gel coat, to prevent surface cracking.
Cleaning Tip (8):
Out of soap? Cut grease with a mixture of shaving cream and sugar.
Tackle Tip (9): To remove dried, rock-hard GULP! baits from your jig heads, soak them in water for half an hour.
Tackle Tip (10): Tighten drags when you wash reels, to pervent water intrusion. Loosen them for storage, so they don't get pinched.
Winter Lay-up Tip (11):
A grommet ripped out of your boat cover? Ball up a sock, push it under the cover so it makes a bulge, then tie your line around the bottom of the bulge.
Gear Maintenance Tip (12): When lubricating sticky roller guides, pull a rubberband across them to get the rollers rolling.
Trailer Tip (13): Never jack up a trailer on the frame, or you could bend it. Instead, always do it on the axel.
Maintenance Tip (14): Restore flexibility to clear canvass curtains by giving them a coat of Pledge.
Survival Tip (15): If you catch a fish when stranded in a liferaft, eat the eyes, first. They're mostly water, which you need in your stomach in order to digest the fish's meat.
Maintenance Tip (16): When running a bead of caulk or sealant, always push the tube along instead of pulling it - pushing will make a smoother line, every time.
Outrigger Tip (17):
Use different color lines for the short and long riggers; that'll make it easier to know which line to grab when setting your spread.
Engine Tip (18):
Squirt some oil into a cylinder that reads low during a compression test; if the reading then comes up, the piston rings are probably worn.
Radar Tip (19):
About half of all radar failures are related to antenna cable damage, caused during installation - do not remove plug ends, shorten or lengthen cables, or stress then when pulling through pipework.
Cleaning Tip (20): To remove blood, ink, or food stains from vinyl cushions, give 'em a spritze of spray-on deodorant
Cleaning Tip (21):
Dried fishblood's on your clothes or cabin carpet? One thing will get it out: Bissel Carpet Cleaner.
Safety Tip (22): When night fishing, have everyone aboard attach a cyalume light stick to a belt loop with a rubberband. Then, if anyone goes overboard, they'll have a visible way to signal in the darkness.
Today's Tip (23): When installing a bilge pump float switch always mount it atwartships; mount it fore and aft, and it'll be prone to sticking on or off.
Outrigger Tip (24):
To eliminate outrigger line creep, tie a rubberband around the rigger lines in an overhand knot.
Electronics Tip (25): To get your chartplotter trackball working smoothly again, wipe it with
isopropyl alcohol and roll it around for a few seconds.
Safety Tip (26): When shooting flares to signal a boat in the distance, shoot two, 10 – 15 seconds apart. One may leave a questions in people's minds, but the second one leaves no doubt.
Fishbox Tip (27): Saltwater brine will cool fish faster then plain ice; add a 5-gallon bucket of saltwater per 40 pounds of ice, to maximize the chill in your fishbox.
Emergency Fishing Tip (28):
Lost your teaser? String three colorful soda cans on 150-lb. test, and you’ll have an active teaser that lasts several hours.
Navigation Tip (29): To figure your reverse compass bearing, add 180 to bearings under 180 degrees; subtract 180 from those over 180 degrees.
MSD Tip (30): Head hoses are getting clogged regularly? Flush them with muriatic acid. It won't damage the hoses, but will open the clogs.
Zipper Tip (31):
Tough to get the zippers on your canvass curtains to slide? Rub a candle along the zipper, and they’ll slide easily.
Wash-down Tip (32): When washing down the deck at the dock slide a bobber between the scupper flapper and the transom, to allow it to quickly drain.
Cooking Aboard Tip (33):
Craving a hot meal on an outboard-powered center console? Put a can of soup into a bucket then fill it with hot water from the motor's tell-tale, and let it sit 10 - 15 minutes.
Trailering Tip (34): Always unplug your trailer lights before you launch the boat. Hot lights + cool water = busted lightbulbs.
Tackle Tip (35): Never leave reels exposed outside overnight; as dew forms, moisture forms inside the reel and mixes with the grease
Maintenance Tip (36): To get a long-lasting gleam on your gel coat, use paste wax made with bee's wax for an initial protective undercoat, and carnauba-based liquid wax for a shiny top-coat.
What's the bill all about?
1/7/10 Q: What’s the deal with that long pointy bill on marlin?? Most people say it’s a weapon to beat and stun prey, but other fish get along just fine without it. That makes me wonder - could the bill have any other uses? --Jack Hall, Ocean View NJ
A: According to the experts, yes. A marlin's bill could also be a tool to scatter schools of baitfish, a utensil to work fish back to their mouth, or an adaptation to improve hydrostatic flow and boost swimming efficiency. “The way a billfish uses its bill depends on the size of the fish, as well as the size of the fish he’s eating,” explains John Graves, a billfish specialist at the Virginia Institute of Marine Science. "It may be used to stun prey, but that's certainly not the bill's only purpose."
What does this mean to you, the angler? If you can identify the size and species of the billfish attacking your baits, you can improve your hook-up ratio by following these guidelines.
BLUE MARLIN If you’re fishing with a live tuna or mackerel bait, look for a big blue to swat it with the bill, in attempt to stun the bait before swallowing it whole. Respond by giving it a long drop-back, giving the fish time to determine that the bait is "hurt," and eat it. If you’re pulling a smaller bait, such as a ballyhoo on a Ilander, large blue marlin can eat it in one gulp and the drop-back isn’t necessary.
WHITE MARLIN are finesse eaters. They will use their bill’s rough bottom surface to work bait back and forth, pulling it back and into their mouth. There, whites crush the fish with a hard bite before swallowing. Give them a long drop-back, to let them do their bill collecting.
SAILFISH use their bills to flick apart bait balls, then focus on stunned stragglers. If a sail pops up in your spread allow a “dead” bait to sink in freefall, to mimic a bill-stunned baitfish - often, the sailfish will turn and eat it.
SWORDFISH use their weapon to kill squid, often chopping them in half then swimming back to eat the pieces. That means you should always sew the mantle of a rigged squid to its head. This prevents the sword from cutting your bait in two, eating half as it sinks, and possibly missing the part with your hook in it.
-- by Jon Meade
12/3/09Q: Lenny - I read your review of the new Yamaha VMAX SHO motors. I have a 1994 Grady White Sailfish (see attached pic) with the original Yamaha 200 hp 2 stroke motors (carburetors). They still run strong and have good compression (551 hours) but, I'm looking at these new Yamaha VMAX SHO motors as a golden opportunity to repower. And if I could get the new motors soon enough, I could have the repower done over the winter months where it wouldn't cause me to miss any fishing time next summer. Please indulge me in a few questions related to my repower based on your vast experience/knowledge of boating/fishing (much more knowledge/experience than mine).... Most things I've read say buy as much horsepower as you can afford. My current 200 hp motors have plenty of "giddy up and go" (my boat jumps out of the water when I push the throttles up) and the motors don't seem like they're ever working that hard pushing the boat. The only thing I can think of that additional horsepower would help with would be resale of the boat (not likely to happen any time in the near future) or if I had a problem with 1 motor and had to temporarily run on 1 motor. Does additional hp make a significant difference in terms of stress/wear and tear (the more horsepower the less the motor has to work)? And do the 225 hp and 250hp motors use that much more fuel than the 200hp? I would think any of the 3 new motors should make a big fuel efficiency improvement over my original motors that have carburetors.It also looks like Yamaha has new 4 blade props specifically for higher horsepower motors. I've read many articles about props but, if I understand it correctly, basically a 4 blade gives you more blade surface in the water at any given time (less cavitation and more blade bight). Since there is more blade surface in the water, you lose some top end but, you get better mid range cruising (fuel efficiency). Is that right or is there more to it than that? For me, I don't need more top end. Fuel efficiently and increased range is my priority. Take care, tight lines and thanks for any insight you might have, Loring
Loring with a 205 pound tuna taken on his Grady-White Sailfish
A: Hi Loring – you could certainly repower with the new SHO’s and I’ll bet you’d love them, but they won’t be available until January. If you talk to a dealer immediately, you might be able to pre-order one early model and be back on the water in time for the spring season. Since your primary concerns are range and cruising economy, however, I’d like to mention one other possibility to you: you could also consider repowering with a pair of standard F-series Yamaha four-strokes. Sticking with 200’s, they’d add about 200 pounds to your transom (which shouldn’t be a problem, with that boat) but your economy and range would be noticeably better. A few years back I tested a Sailfish with a pair of 200-hp HPDI’s, and it got about 1.8 MPG at 30-mph, so I’ll bet the carburated engines on your boat get you closer to 1.6 MPG at that speed. Now compare that to 2.0 MPG for the same boat with a pair of F-series four-strokes.
Now, why wouldn’t you want the latest and greatest, and go with the SHO’s? Maybe you would – I know I love getting my hands on the hottest newest goodies to hit the market! But both the SHO and the F-series will gain you the economy and range you’re looking for (and be a heck of a lot quieter, and smoke free, too). The benefit of the weight savings isn’t much of an issue on your rig, and you say the increased hole shot isn’t important to you, either. So, why pay a premium for the added benefits you don’t need? And yes, this is a big premium, we’re talking about – you’ll probably be able to pick up a pair of F-200’s for about one third less then SHO’s. Call it 10 grand, to use a round figure. That’ll pay your operation expenses for quite some time.
So far as boosting the power to save wear and tear, I wouldn’t worry about it. 400 horses is not under-powering your boat, and as long as that’s not the case, you’re correct – resale value is the biggest reason to up the numbers.
Finally, the props: Yamaha did intro a new line of four-blades this year, and I tested a 33 Contender rigged with them on a pair of 250’s. There were no big surprises, so I’d guess that on your rig, you’d lose maybe two MPH at top end; you might gain a tenth of a MPG, but I don’t always see improved economy when going to a four-blade. You may, however, also notice a better bite when going through heavy seas, which results in less deceleration and uneven revving when climbing up & down large waves. With props, the results can vary from boat to boat and the only way to know for sure is to test it. But repowering should give you some serious pull with a dealer – so tell him you’d like a pair of the four-blades and a pair of three-blades to try out, and you’ll return the pair you decide not to keep. Considering the size of your purchase, they shouldn’t have a problem with that. Good luck, and the next time you tie into a fish like the one in that picture, send me an e-mail and tell me how, when, and on what you got it!
How can an outboard boat compete with this?
11/17/09
Q: I run a 28' center console, and never seem to catch as many fish as the bigger boats in the marina. Most of the guys think their inboard diesels raise more fish then my outboards ever will, and it's a matter of harmonics the different types of boats create. Are they right? If so, is there any way to fight this handicap?
--Glenn Abbot, Greenville, NC
A: Yes, and yes. my own experience and research has convinced me that outboard boats simply do not draw fish up to the baits as often or as effectively as diesel boats. While doing field work for an article years ago, we recorded the underwater sounds made by diesels versus outboards, and found that the low-frequency harmonics (which scientists believe to attract predators) are far stronger with diesel inboards. But that doesn't mean you can't do a few things to even the odds a bit.
You need to turn your boat into a fish-attracting magnet, but you simply can't change the harmonics of your boat very much (prop choice does change it, but not as significantly as going from outboards to diesels.) So you'll have to work on visually attracting fish; teasers and spreader bars are the key. You'll need both surface and sub-surface teasers. My favorite for the sub-surface is a holographic Stripteaser rigged on a collapsible bar for easy stowage. Rig a weight or a Stretch 25+ on a dropper line in front of the teaser to get it down a bit, run it from a stern cleat, and it'll look like a real school of fish is trailing 20’ behind your boat at all times. Run naked ballyhoo off to the sides of and behind the teaser, and you'll discover that baits close to the teaser get slammed quite often.
Surface teasers should consist of spreader bars made of multiple squid. Pink, green, blue/white and psychedelic colors are all effective on different days, but it’s rare that they are all equally effective on any given day so you need to carry a selection. These can be run from a short rigger or directly off the rod tip in the aftermost holder. Either way, make sure you run it on the opposite side of the sub-surface teaser, to spread out your fish-attracting devices as much as possible. Also make sure the spreader bar itself stays in the air, (only the baits should be in the water) and set the spreader's distance behind the boat according to this factor.
Between the multiple teasers you'll be creating quite a ruckus both at and below the surface, to help draw in the fish. And since you can pull the Striptease from a cleat and the spreader from an outrigger clip, no major re-rigging will be necessary on your boat. It may not completely even the playing field, but it'll surely help you compete.
10/27/09
Q: I always winterized my two stroke outboards. Is it just as important to winterize a 4- stroke, or can you just start it a couple times each month to keep the cylinders lubricated?
Thanks,
--John, Ocean City, Maryland
A: A very wise old angler I used to know told me that the best way to winterize an outboard was to use it. I've always followed his advice, and it's always served me well for both two and four strokes. In fact, I haven't bought fogging oil in about 10 years. (Tried it once, used the boat the next weekend, never touched the stuff again.) The main reason you're supposed to use it is to protect the internal components of your engine. But if you run the motor at least once a month, it will stay well-lubricated and protected anyway. If three weeks go by and you don't foresee using the boat, just hook up your hose and run the outboard for 10 or 15 minutes. Otherwise, make sure you follow the usual winter drill: changing the lower unit oil (always do this before the first hard freeze, just in case some water got in there,) lube your grease points, stabilize the fuel if it'll sit for more then a couple of months, and make all of your visual inspections.
10/27/09
Q: Hi, I am serously looking at purchasing an 18-19ft Scout bay boat and am torn between the bay series and sportfish models. Are the 2 comparable in ride and rough water situations? I appreciate the sportfsh has a flared bow etc but does the bay share the same hull characteristics just with lower sides and different top deck.
I appreciate any info you can give and if you think there are better model brands out there in the 18-19ft range please don't hesitate to mention them. I will be importing the boat to Australia so won't be riding in them before purchasing.
Regards, Aaron
A: Hi Aaron - First off, there are so many good quality bay boats out there in this size range that it would be impossible to start talking about other brands without writing a book's worth of info - but check out the ones in the Bay Boat section of this site. You'll notice that one of my top picks is a brand you're already looking at, Scout. I've been on virtually all of their models and I have a lot of respect for their excellent "bang for the buck," intelligent design, and stout construction. That said, directly comparing the 191 Bay Scout model versus the 187 Sportfish model, note that these boats are quite different below the waterline. The Sportfish has two degrees more deadrise, 120-pounds more dry weight, and 7" less beam. As a result, it chops through the seas a bit more smoothly. The flip side of the coin is draft; the sharper V-bottom and added weight requires 12" to float, while the Bay Scout needs 10". The bay boat also has a hair more casting space and a bit more stability. Which is better for you? List out these advantages/disadvantages, prioritize them, and figure out which better fits your needs. It should be fun - good luck!
Scout Sportfish
Bay Scout
Q: I'm getting ready to have my 23' center console winterized, and every year the yard bills me for two gallons of anti-freeze and time spent running it through the 225-hp Honda. A friend told me they're ripping me off, because outboards don't need anti-freeze. Is this true?
--Max H., Portland, ME
A: Yep, it's true. Tilt your outboard down and it should drain completely - whether water is running out or anti-freeze. I've see yard mechanics do this before, asked why they were doing it, and was told "the owners don't know any better and we need the income." You might consider moving your boat to a different marina, one you can actually trust.
9/26/09
Q: I have a 20' SeaRay with an I/O and have a hard time steering to the right when cruising. It seems to be better when the boat is on plane. The steering is fine when I am going slow. I was thinking that the prop may need to be replaced. Thanks for your advice.
Vinny E, New York
A: Hey Vinny - I doubt very much the prop is the problem, it sounds more like an issue with your outdrive's trim tab, or a lack thereof. Torque will always cause the boat to pull, and most drive units on both stern drives and outboards benefit greatly from an additional trim tab, usually part of the sacrificial anode, mounted on the underside of the anti-ventilation plate. Here's a picture of one:
The arrow points out the trim tab.
Unfortunately, these trim tabs are regularly replaced with flat sacrificial anodes. Peek behind your drive and I'll bet there's no trim tab, is there? If the answer is yes, look to see if it's in line with the lower unit. It should be cocked about 30-degrees off-center to counter the torque; if it isn't, loosen the bolt holding it in place and give it a turn. If you do have a trim tab and cocking it into the correct position doesn't help, let me know and we'll diagnose the problem further.
9/20/09
Q: My boat's only three years old, but the nonskid looks horrible. It's been stained by fish blood, squid ink, and tree droppings, just to name a few of the worst offenders. I scrub and scrub and scrub, but it doesn't seem to do any good. I've tried five different kinds of boat soaps - is there any way to get nonskid clean?
--Bob E., in Edgewater, MD
A: In my experience only one thing really works: Soft Scrub with bleach. It 'll still take some good old fashioned scrubbing, but it will get those tough-to-clean stains off of your nonskid. There's just one problem: this stuff is hard on gel coat, and it'll take the shine away, too. So use it, but use it sparingly.
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